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July 5, 2005

Removing Hard-to-Remove Linoleum Remnants

floor
Our contractor has not been able to get these bits of old linoleum off the wood floor in one corner of what will be our living room. Big bummer. Anyone have any special tips? We not thrilled with living with this crap on the floor or the alternative of replacing the floor. There has to be some secret technique...




Comments

Its called a "rug"

Posted by: Anonymous at July 5, 2005 10:20 AM

Did you try a heat gun?

Posted by: Anonymous at July 5, 2005 10:20 AM

Heat gun, chisel ... There's always a way.

Posted by: Anonymous at July 5, 2005 10:22 AM

lighter fluid + metal scraper

Posted by: Anonymous at July 5, 2005 10:23 AM

Try dry ice. I believe I saw that recommended on This Old House.

Good luck!

Posted by: Anonymous at July 5, 2005 12:09 PM

Industrial strength paint stripper will melt them and (more importantly) will take off the glue used to hold them down. I recommend Rock Miracle, which is available in five gallon drums for $125-130 "New York Style" (cash, no tax).

Posted by: Matthew Haines at July 5, 2005 3:00 PM

Whatever method you choose (or not) keep in mind that old linoleum often contains asbestos. It is not as friable (and thus dangerous) as insulation, but still something to consider.

Posted by: safetyfirst at July 5, 2005 5:35 PM

www.franmar.com has a soy-based remover specifically made for this. I've been using their paint stripper (Bean E Strip) and the adhesive remover for several years now, and love them. Amazing stuff - doesn't burn, and eco-friendly.

Posted by: Justin at July 5, 2005 5:50 PM

i just removed that jusnk on my wood floors, go buy "krud kutter" from home depot or your local paint store. its a non solvent cleaner brush it on let it soak for 15-20 minutes, it scrapes up like butter with a putty knife. krud kutter only costs like 15 bucks a gallon.

Posted by: Anonymous at July 6, 2005 12:36 PM

Thank G-D they put down plywood first before they put down the linoleum in my bedrooms. Took me months to get it all up. The floors have holes from the nails but it adds to the 100+ year old cachet of the house and they look great.

PS Love your blog.

Posted by: carol at July 6, 2005 12:38 PM

I successfully removed every last freaking piece of the shittiest linoleum in an old apartment with a crappy iron on the hottest setting. I set the iron atop a sheet of paper on top of the squares of grossness. once it got hot enough to melt the shit underneath, i peeled it up with pennies stuck to my fingers for protection as the iron slowly slid to heat up the next square. Afterwards, the floors were so sticky I would literally walk out of my shoes going to the loo. a nice helping of flour kept that at bay until I had the time and money to get them professionally refinished. But they sure looked fantastic.

Posted by: Anonymous at July 6, 2005 3:58 PM

The adhesive used to apply linoleum was often hide glue, like DuPages cement only a lot more concentrated. (Sort of like rabbit skin glue used in the classic method for priming artists canvases.) It can be dissolved with water. You have to work fast. I have often used hot water, a scraper and then a blow dryer because you can warp the floor. Don't work on one area for too long. Move around a little so the floor doesn't saturate.

Posted by: Been There at July 6, 2005 10:57 PM

We have the same problem but have not got around to fixing it yet. Two separate individuals who work on these old houses and saw our place recommended the dry ice too - said it was really easy and fast that way. Just wondering where to get it and to use it safely.
Great blog - thanks.

Posted by: same boat at July 7, 2005 11:24 AM

we just recently had to remove linoleum that covered our hard word floors. Take some water and spray liberally on the linoleum. Let soak for about 10 minutes. Use a scraper to scrape off the linoleum. Make sure the linoleum is still wet when you do this. This worked for me... Good Luck.

Posted by: Anonymous at July 8, 2005 8:44 AM

just put some linoleum over the old stuff, works for me

Posted by: Anonymous at April 15, 2006 3:44 PM

Use a Fein Multimaster with a scrapping blade to remove the stubborn pieces.

Posted by: Tom at May 10, 2006 8:18 PM

What a lousy job this is!

I'm doing a combination of things on my basement stairs.

I pulled up the tacky carpeting and found some linolium tiles beneath. I couldn't be so lucky to hit raw wood.

I tried sanding and theat didn't help. I'm using stripper that roofing guys use to clean tar off their tools. I bought it from a paint store.

I'm brushing it on and using a wide scraper and a narrow one and wiping it down with rags. It's a slow process, but if you keep re-applying and going back to scaping and wiping it, it's easy on the hands.

Make sure you have good ventilation of course. Take lots of breaks too! I'm working in it 5 minutes at a time.

Posted by: Ken at May 28, 2007 2:17 PM

using hot water and a window scraping tool that uses razer blades, tough work but seems to work better than any other tools.

good luck

Posted by: Anonymous at June 26, 2007 12:49 AM

I am an architect in Milwaukee. I am on my second 80 year old bungalow. I am in the process of removing my second kitchen and hall way floors. I've tried most of the traditional methods, but today discovered the simplest, easiest and least costly process of removing linoleum and the tar paper backing and adhesive underneath them.

I've read most all the postings and can add my own two cents to the discussion.

1997: In my first home, I removed linoleum from the hallway by pulling it up. I then used heat gun to heat the adhesive and tar backing and scraped them off the hard wood floors. Very labor intensive and odorous.

In the kitchen of that house, there were two layers of flooring: a top layer of sheet vinyl with an underlayment and linoleum underneath that. We pulled up the sheet vinyl, pulled up the linoleum and scraped the tar paper backing and adhesive off the soft wood subfloor. Very labor intensive. It took forever. I was younger and stupid then. But it worked. Who knows what I breathed in when I scraped off the adhesive!

2007: With this kitchen floor, there was a layer of original linoleum covered with a 12 by 12 vinyl tile. I pulled up the vinyl tile and linoleum by hand, using a paint scraper to pull it up. I tried scraping the tar backing and adhesive, but decided I could not do that again. There had to be a better way.

I decided to try chemicals first. I bought Krud Kutter and also Jasco Adhesive Remover, both from Ace Hardware. I sprayed a 1 foot by 1 foot area with the the Krud Kutter and another with the Jasco Remover. Surprisingly the Krud Kutter worked better at removing the tar paper. It made it more pliable, but it still had to be scraped off with a lot of elbow grease. The Jasco worked less efficiently but seemed to soften more of the the adhesive than the Krud Kutter.

THE FINAL SOLUTION: I had removed wall paper from the walls in this room and cleaned the walls earlier in the day. Of course, lots of hot water managed to get on the perimeter of the floor at the walls. I noticed that this was surprisingly pliable. So, having read about boiling water in the forum, I put down an old bath towel folded in half on the tar paper. I then boiled a tea kettle full of water. I poured this on the towel and waited for it to cool. when I removed the towel, the tar paper and most of the adhesive wiped right up. It was a bit messy, but not too much so.

So, I decided that steaming the tar paper and adhesive would be the best choice. I went to Home Depot and rented a steamer for wall paper. It cost 20 dollars for 4 hours.

After warming up the steamer (about 25 minutes) I sat on a stool and laid the steamer applicator (which was about 8" x 12" on a section of flooring. I left it there for one minute to 90 seconds. Then moved it to another area to steam. The tar paper and adhesive scraped off the wood subfloor with NO effort. While the next section was steaming, I took a bucket with hot water and a heavy duty scotch-bright pad and scrubbed the area where the paper had just been removed, then wiped it up with a wet cloth.

In this manner, I removed the tar paper and adhesive from a soft wood sub floor in this area of the room (6' x 10' area) in less than 2 hours. It cost only 20 dollars for the steamer and little effort at all--in fact, if I scraped too hard I found that it would more likely damage the edges of the subfloor boards. I found it was best to pull the scraper towards me without a lot of pressure. The tar paper just peeled right off like wet paper towel.

So, having tried most of the methods described in the forum, the only method I would use is a wall paper steamer. I thought it would be messy and hard. I couldn't believe how easy it was.

Posted by: guest at November 24, 2007 11:56 PM

Thank you sooooooo much to the person who suggested using the wallpaper steamer. While I didn't have quite as good of luck with it as you did, I am not complaining at all! The tar came up immediately, just as though I were sweaping it off the floor. Thank you for saving me hours of tourturous work.

You rock!

Posted by: guest at January 13, 2008 8:00 PM

Yes, the Hot Water method works - we have a 1925 bungalow in the Twin Cities area, and after removing two layers of ceramic tile, and one layer of linoleum, we came across the seemingly rock hard adhesive used to glue the linoleum down.

Up until the steaming method, we were chiseling the crud off the maple floor, a very slow and tedious process.

Surprisingly, I had called a local flooring installer, and they recommended paint stripper, and working a small area at a time. They said it is an incredibly slow process.

Thanks again for the great tip.

Posted by: guest at February 8, 2008 6:38 AM

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