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September 12, 2005

"The Connecticut Part of Brooklyn"

houseThis weekend, the NY Post shined a light on a neighborhood that's gotten a lot of attention around here this past year, Victorian Flatbush. We bet there's not a hardcore brownstoner out there who hasn't gazed at those photos of lush front yards, vast front porches and two-car driveways and had second-thoughts. Like many parts of Brooklyn with top-notch housing stock, prices have zoomed in the past decade: The article notes that a large Victorian house could have been picked up for under $250,000 ten years ago, now a run-down comparable will run you close to a million bucks--if you can find one. Mary Kay Gallagher notes that there's only one house available in Prospect Park South--and a long waiting list of folks who want in. That may be over-dramatizing the situation a little: There have been several cases of overpriced houses sitting on the market for a while this year. Nonetheless, as more and more people hear about the 'hood, it's easy to imagine it continuing to grow in popularity.
Good Manors [NY Post]




Comments

Nice to see this recognition from my end because I live in Victorian Flatbush. We just moved in last year so missed some of the real killer escalation, but still feel like we got a nice place for good money relatively speaking. Ton of space, front porch, driveway/garage, big yard, quiet. It really is lovely out there and as more services fill in, it will only get better. But I will say this- these houses are definitely demanding from a maintenance standpoint. Beautiful for sure, and usually well-built, but demanding. Anyway, I was looking for a hobby, so...

Posted by: pk at September 12, 2005 11:45 AM

This Sunday at 7 pm, the Brave New World Theatre Company is doing a free outdoor presentation of To Kill a Mockingbird on the front porches of Victorian Flatbush on Westminster Road between Beverly and Cortelyou. A great excuse to see the neighborhood in all its glory. Check the website bravenewworldrep.org for details.

Posted by: Anonymous at September 12, 2005 12:22 PM

I spent a year looking in Ditmas Park (among a lot of other places) from June '04 to June '05, and found the rapid and gratuitous escalation of prices there to be too much to stomach. Some of these houses would have been a solid deal for 7-800k, but when Corcoran & Co. started asking $999k (and, not too long after, $1.4m) for some run-down examples in need of $2-300k of work (many of which had just been flipped anyway), I said forget it. I'm now the proud owner of a beautiful 4 story 1920s castle-like villa on a verdantly landscaped garden slope in Staten Island. I think, unfortunately, Ditmas Park is long "over" as the next place to go, and those who want space, beauty, and luxury for $600-700k (what Ditmas Park offered about 24 months ago) had better turn to Staten Island before it gets swallowed up too.

Posted by: Russell at September 12, 2005 3:16 PM

You could also move to Buffalo, NY and spend $100k

Posted by: ryan at September 12, 2005 3:45 PM

How are those two things even remotely comparable? My house is 25 minutes from wall street.

Posted by: Russell at September 12, 2005 4:05 PM

I agree. While Staten Island surely has some beautiful areas, the commute to Manhattan is not comparable to most parts of "brownstone" Bkln. Apples to oranges really. It's as much about location as it is the type of house you can find.

Posted by: Anonymous at September 12, 2005 4:13 PM

I have to say respectfully that I totally disagree. I used to live in Park Slope, and so I'm very familiar with the subway commute from Brownstone Brooklyn. My commute to downtown, including the walk down the hill to the ferry terminal, is about a half-hour. My commute from park Slope was 45 minutes. The omission of Staten Island as a viable place to live within New York City is baffling to me, and this is clearly the reason that it's still affordable. It calls to mind the way people used to talk about Hoboken, Jersey City, Williamsburg, Red Hook, and Greenpoint -- "too far away," "too awkward a commute," "not enough services," "no arts community," "may as well go to Buffalo," etc. Why is comparing the PATH to the subway any more apples to oranges than comparing the ferry to the subway? At least the ferry is free.

This is clearly a case of groupthink, and once the Real Estate Machine starts marketing Staten Island (since the completion of a new multi-million dollar ferry terminal and pending arrival of more waterfront luxury loft buildings) there will be an "aha" moment where everyone realizes that they should have bought something there five years ago, and by then it will be too late. Seriously, how else can you 0explain why decaying row houses in Bed Stuy and Crown Heights are going for more money than 100 year old six-bedroom mansions with panoramic views of Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Jersey City, which are a seven-minute walk from the ferry, which is, in turn, 25 minutes away from downtown?

After everyone else who doesn't already own something is priced out of Brooklyn, there will be no other place left with as rich a housing stock which is as close to downtown Manhattan.

Posted by: Russell at September 12, 2005 4:41 PM

I have no doubt that Staten Island is lovely, but for me to get to work in midtown would just take too long- though I would not mind the boat aspect as that seems like a pleasant way to start or finish a workday. Anyway, I would agree with the contention that finding a "deal" in or around ditmas has become very difficult, if not impossible. That being said, the houses are great and close to amenities in the slope. One other issue that has been discussed here before regarding the commute time. I do it every day. Newkirk-Midtown is the same on the B or the Q. It takes me MAYBE 40 minutes tops from Door to Desk. Tops. That includes walks to and from the station, elevator rides, and any waiting time if there is any.

Posted by: pk at September 12, 2005 5:09 PM

No one is saying there are not beautiful homes in Staten Island, but a 25 minute ferry ride minimum just to get to the ferry terminal means that unless you work at One New York Plaza you have at least 30 minutes of getting to the ferry and ferry ride (if you live close to the ferry on SI) then need to catch a cab or a subway to work (which will likely take more that 15mins). That's why neighborhoods close to the city have shot up in price so much (e.g. Ft. Greene, Clinton Hill, Prospect Heights, not to mention Ditmas Park and others further south). I live in Clinton hill and my door to door to downtown is 20 to 30 minutes tops unless something is wrong with the subway. That includes walking and waiting for the subway and my work is a good 4 block walk from the subway. When commutes start to extend over an hour, then it gets tough I think. Midtown, for example, from SI is tough everyday for most people. I used to do that from Fort Greene and it took me about 40 minutes.

Posted by: Anonymous at September 12, 2005 5:15 PM

Red Hook still is way out of the way...

Posted by: Anonymous at September 12, 2005 5:17 PM

Can anyone say, "tangent?" Brownstoner must be proud that someone in Staten Island is reading his website. It's not only the commute that differentiates one area from another. After all, it takes me longer to get to work from Prospect Park South than it did when I was just out of college and commuting from Westchester to midtown (the Harlem line of Metro North). The Post article actually was not too informative. The beauty of Victorian Flatbush, I believe, lies in the fact that it is a viable alternative to brownstone Brooklyn but, like brownstone Brooklyn, is extraordinarily beautiful. The housing stock smacks of history and there is a special feel that we of Brooklyn are part of a renaissance, albeit with the grit and social and economic mix that exists rarely elsewhere. By the way, we do get Fresh Direct in our neigborhood.

Posted by: Tommy at September 12, 2005 5:29 PM

For Ditmas Park money, you could live in the Kings Bluff section of Weehawken and still have money left over for reno. Its a 15 min bus ride to the Port Authority, tops.
First the only-Manhattan mindset, then the only-Brooklyn one... it will take another 30 years for the next nabe/boro/town to hit.

Posted by: me at September 12, 2005 5:33 PM

How close are ammenities in SI? I thought that being able to walk to the grocery/butcher/dry cleaner etc., was all part of the "living in Brownstone Brooklyn" idea, as opposed to hoping in a car to do the same. I see what you are saying about the "only Manhattan" or "only Brooklyn" mindset, but I wonder if it is more about living in something that feels like a city? I live in Brooklyn, but grew up in the suburbs. I've come to really love interacting with people just doing those simple things like errands. On my visits to the family, I barely see anyone outside their homes in an entire weekend. My impression of SI was that it was more similar to the suburbs...is that true?

Posted by: sba at September 12, 2005 6:18 PM

That's my impression of SI too. Not as much of an urban feel or lifestyle. Not that its not a nice place, but if you are going to live in NYC, might as well be urban living... not to knock SI, its just what you are looking for in a neighborhood and home really.

Posted by: Anonymous at September 12, 2005 7:13 PM

I thought that this was such an interesting thread, it got me searching the web to see some photos of the historic districts in SI. I found this old article (from 2003) that seems to back up poster Russell's points. I hope the link works.

http://daily.nysun.com/Repository/getFiles.asp?Style=OliveXLib:ArticleToMail&Type=text/html&Path=NYS/2003/10/29&ID=Ar00900

Posted by: sba at September 12, 2005 7:32 PM

To the folks who think it's suburban, yes there are parts of the island which are, but no, the part I'm talking about, St. George, is just as urban as Ditmas Park, Williamsburg and other up-and-coming parts of Brooklyn, albeit with nearby greenery, 1905 victorian mansions, windowed loft spaces, views, etc. Within ten minutes' walk from my front door are three dry cleaners, four grocery stores, Cuban, Mexican, Jamaican, Polish, Sri Lankan, Chinese, Indian restaurants, a hipster bar/restaurant (Ditmas Park has only one, as well), a post office, an Internet cafe, three pharmacies, a weekend greenmarket, four donut places, etc. etc. etc. It's clear to me that, like so many others, those who conceive of SI as suburban and not pedestrian accessible haven't really ever spent any time here. If you're about to spend $1m+ on a single or multiple place in Brooklyn, like I was, it's very much worth a trip to Staten Island. Urbanity is very important to me, and I wouldn't have compromised without pedestrian access to everything I need.

The point is well taken about this site being dedicated to Brownstone Brooklyn, but the comparison I'm making is between Ditmas Park and St. George, and since brownstoner posted about Ditmas Park, it's fair game. Both are burgeoning areas with promising but currently limited (compared to the places I left, Smith St., Fifth Avenue, Bedford Ave, etc.) commercial activity. Each has a few good restaurants within walking distance and a larger number of low-rent ones, beyond which a trip elsewhere is required. The houses in both are large and relatively spread out, though both also have blocks of urban geogrpahy with dense apartment buildings and businesses at street level. Both neighborhoods are racially and economically diverse. Yet, the prices in Ditmas are about twice what they are in Staten Island, because of the subway. I don't think the differential is entirely over fifteen minutes more of commute (I can get to midtown in 55 minutes compared with the 40 it takes from Newkirk), but rather that Staten Island is somehow branded as an inferior good by people who have never been there. I remember the days when people from Manhattan wouldn't even take the subway into Brooklyn to visit me, don't you?

I'm not trying to convince everyone to move there, but it's poignant that Staten Island is always conspicuously missing from the discussion of Real Estate in New York. It is New York City after all. Check out the NYTimes Real Estate section in coming weeks and you'll start to see more of what I'm talking about. Until then, I'm enjoying it here very much.

Posted by: Russell at September 12, 2005 7:55 PM

I did not mean to imply that SI was inferior, just that it seems to have a less urban feel as the 7:13pm poster noted. Where I live is more "urban" than Ditmas Park. I've been to SI on numerous occassions, but not to the area that you've mentioned. After finding the article that backed up your points (I posted the link), and reading your reply, I am defintely going to take a trip over to see the St. George area that you are talking about. It's an admiration of architecture that keeps me coming to this site, as I already own my home in Brooklyn.
I see now that you are comparing two areas that are more alike than most would guess...

Posted by: sba at September 12, 2005 8:27 PM

Hi,

I am new to PPS (moved in a week ago) from Park slope (2 years) and before that pretty much every neighborhood south of 96th in manhattan. I kept moving into edgier and edgier neighborhoods, not for the clubs, restaurants, but for the old feel of the neighborhoods of nyc. Manhattan has become just one big island of transplants...there are no more local nabes with places like alphabet city and the lower east side completely gentrified. Brooklyn is the only place to find it and its dissappering fast, but its still very much here in victorian flatbush and I love it. Yeah you have to drive or get on the subway for a couple of stops to get a variety of restaurants (you do it in manhattan all the time), but we all know 90% of the time one is going to one bar, one brunch place, one deli, etc in your nabe so I don't think its so different. As far as comparing it to the suburbs, I think most of us would agree that having a real house, yard, garage, driveway, sun on all sides, with 6-9 bedrooms is much better than any penthouse apartment or brownstone. What we're all really avoiding is the homogenity of the suburbs which victorian flatbush certainly isn't. Here you get the best of both worlds. I mean where else in nyc do you get your neighbors dropping by to say hello, instant play groups, and neighbors with similar age children asking to meet up all in the first week. This place rules at least for 30 year old set with kids who want an architectual gem of a house in a "real" nyc neighborhood and not one that just opened another cafe habana with some poser hipsters hanging in the garden.

Posted by: Anonymous at September 12, 2005 9:07 PM

i have some empathy for the staten island poster. but lets say this, when a person posts that staten island is not urban enough what they really mean is trendy enough. meaning there are no whole foods on the horizon, no bistros and cafes charging 20 dollars for brunch and obligatory luxury condos.
as a person who has a rental property and lived in park slope and now owns and lives in bay ridge, i've gotten use to people looking down on me for living there. too many guidos, too conservative etc,etc,etc. yes those people exist ,along with great restaraunts, schools , parks ,shops that sell stuff you actually need and even a democratic city council member.
i also have to say i'm tired of diversity postings. at last check none of us live in indiana. our diversity are muslims and russians who compete for housing stock not the diversity of crown heights, bed stuy and fort greene that get rolled over and out of the neighborhood. what so much do you all like about that diversity? the crappy schools? the crime? the need to justify why you moved there when you couldn't afford some place else? i know its the price!
this does not mean all you posters who live in these nabes and the rest of brownstone brooklyn are terrible it just seems there is an elitism developing. the fact is most of us were just lucky schmucks who bought 5 plus years ago. me, i'm tired of brooklyn becoming manhattan. although bay ridge has fresh direct i don't need to where it as a moniker. besides i like going to the supermarket.

Posted by: Anonymous at September 12, 2005 9:58 PM

If I meant trendy, I would have written trendy. There is a difference between Suburban and Urban. One is not "better" than the other, just different. Urban means more foot traffic; a car is not a necessity. I go to the grocery store as well (not a Whole Foods btw), but I walk the 2 blocks to the store and bring the food home in a cart. I don't drive 15 minutes to the grocery store like my mother did. To me, that is the difference between what "feels" urban vs. suburban.

Plus, I'm too old to wait in line for brunch...

Posted by: sba at September 13, 2005 8:32 AM

Have you been to these other nabes? the grocery is closer to me now...30ft than it was in park slope...and there's plenty of foot traffic...is that your definition of urban?

Posted by: Anonymous at September 13, 2005 9:00 AM

I have lived in Ditmas Park for two years now, having come from Manhattan with a very short interlude in Park Slope immediately prior. At first, I was a little disoriented, missed the ease of Manhattan, my old neighborhood haunts (I should mention I felt this way just as strongly in Park Slope, which I always felt was just a poor man's Upper West Side or West Village). However, after settling into our beautiful house with a significantly larger family than I had when I lived in Manhattan, I can honestly say that I really love Ditmas Park. The people here really make it something special. There's almost a sense of "freshman orientation" bonding here - lots of young families preserving homes in a fabulous but previously neglected neighborhood, working together to bring programs, amenities, etc... to the neighborhood. There's a feeling of community here that I've never experienced ANYWHERE else. People are open, friendly, generally broad thinking individuals. New neighbors are officially welcomed several times a year and informal parties held in both private homes and at local establishments. The new Cortelyou Road businesses work hard together with the community to continually improve the quality of life. The Flatbush Family Network makes integration into the neighborhood very easy for new families. Flatbush Athletics, a fabulous FREE after school program founded by a visionary resident of Beverly Square West provides non-competitive soccer games, kickball, and other age-appropriate activies for kids who live in big rambling houses, as well as kids who live in the neighborhood apartments. This is a great family neighborhood - no two ways about it. As far as schools go, PS 139 and 237 get better all the time. And by the way, there are some legal two family houses here, which offer the rental income that appeals to so many buyers who can't swing the $1 plus price tags otherwise. Don't get me wrong, I think Brownstone Brooklyn is stunning. Love Fort Greene beyond words. But I don't think these other neighborhoods (and I looked in all of them - and even considered historic Staten Island)come anywhere close to Victorian Flatbush in terms of community. Someone once told me there was a study done which said that neighborhoods exactly like Victorian Flatbush provided the architecural foundation to build a strong sense of community - fairly closely spaced homes with wide front porches, which demanded that you actually get to know your neighbors. Seeing neighbors enjoying their outdoor space lends a sense of cozy familiarity to the place. It's hard just to walk by without saying "Hello".

Posted by: Anonymous at September 13, 2005 9:30 AM

I haven't been on this site for a while, but I happened across this discussion and I think it is great. If money weren't an issue, I would buy in Ditmas Park or Prospect Park South. I love the houses, which are big and have lots of light (owing to the fact that they are free standing, whereas row houses just get two sides). The commute is pretty good and the amenities will come. Heck, I am in the burbs now, so hopping in the car is fine, and at least you get a driveway.

That said, as a first time home buyer with kids making under $150k, Ditmas Park is way too pricey for me. I will leave it to the house rich Slopers wanting more space or the Wall Street types with cash to burn.

As for St George and the rest of Northern SI, I might take you up on your advice Russell. Getting in now, I'll definitely get a leg up on all the doubters in this thread. Thanks.

Posted by: BK Squeeze at September 13, 2005 1:18 PM

Staten Island can not compare to living in Brownstone Brooklyn at any price. I love to eat at nice restaurants like Sette and Al Di La. Can you do that on Staten Island? SI might work for some people, but I'll take my big brownstone near the park in Park Slope any day.

Posted by: BigBubba at September 13, 2005 5:39 PM

Bigbubba I just lost any respect I ever had for you. You got lucky and bought at the right time and therefore could afford a huge house in your number one neighborhood. I doubt you could afford your big brownstone if you were a bit younger and were just entering the market today. You should feel happy, at one with the universe and grateful for your good luck. Instead, you sound smug, self-important and condescending. I guess even your huge brownstone by the park can't make you truly happy if you still feel the need to gloat and try to make others feel bad. It is because of people like you that I fled Park Slope for Victorian Flatbush like a few others who posted below even though I could actually afford it. I wanted to like my neighbors.

Posted by: Anonymous at September 13, 2005 6:44 PM

I'm the poster who moved to Ditmas Park from Manhattan with the pit stop in Park Slope. We, too, could afford a house in Park Slope, even WITHOUT rental income, but chose Ditmas Park instead, precisely because Park Slope was overflowing with a strain of people we much rather do without. Big Bubba's last post smug attitude embodies what we fled. Like I said, the community is what really makes Victorian Flatbush.

Posted by: Anonymous at September 13, 2005 7:09 PM

I recently bought a big, gorgeous old house in St. George, Staten Island. I'm an artist with a studio in Manhattan. It takes me about 35-40 minutes to get there from SI. I lived in Park Slope previously and it took exactly the same amount of time, however, the subway ride was stressful and the F train was frequently broken. The ferry is so reliable and enjoyable that I look forward to the time spent on it. I never feel like it is a long trip. It is always over so quick that I wouldnt mind it being a little longer. I make phone calls, check my lists, and sometimes I sketch. I have a big old house which came with a beautiful garden. My neighbors are really friendly. I met 3 of them on my first visit to the house. While I liked living in Manhattan I did not enjoy living in Park Slope. I hated the F train. I only found 1 or 2 restaurants that I really loved. My neighbors were unfriendly and unsociable. Perhaps it was my apartment or location (not near the park) but honestly I did not like it there. I do think that Ditmas Park is a great place to live and it is very similar to parts of Staten Island. There are wonderful restaurants here. SI is known for its amazing italian food but in St. George, where I live, there are all types of ethnic foods. I don't drive so I live near the ferry. That was a big consideration for me. I like having the best of both worlds. The urban feel with big apartment buildings on one block and around the corner, shady tree lined streets with unique old homes. People care for their yards here and somehow they all know how to garden. Maybe they learned at the nearby botanical gardens at the historic Snug Harbor Museum and arts complex? They offer gardening classes there. I personally need to learn that now that I have inherited a large yard with heavily planted gardens from the previous owners. There is very little litter and crime. There are stunning beaches, a beautiful boardwalk, huge parks, marinas, fog horns, and crickets at night...in NYC! It's unique. Staten Island makes me happy. I looked everywhere in NYC and nearby NJ and I chose SI.

Posted by: Minky at September 14, 2005 1:31 AM

Just for the record that last BigBubba post was NOT the real BigBubba - just a BB imposter.

Gotta say, however, that whoever it was must know me pretty well.

Posted by: BigBubba at September 15, 2005 11:06 AM

And just for the record, while I might love where I live, I certainly do not begrudge anyone their own preferences. So, I would never come into a thread such as this one and intentially diss anyone.

If you love S.I., then more power to you. I hope you're happy too.

Posted by: BigBubba at September 15, 2005 11:08 AM

Imposter? You expect us to believe that horse shit? I'd have a lot more respect for you if you just apologized and went about your business. I "almost" feel sorry for you. You're so pathetic to come up with the imposter story and then basically set the record straight (i.e. accept responsibility for your comment.)

Posted by: Anonymous at September 15, 2005 10:54 PM

Get a life dude.

Posted by: BigBubba at September 16, 2005 10:04 AM

For the record, I didn't think it was you BB.

Posted by: BK Squeeze at September 16, 2005 11:52 AM

Okay, so the cat's out of the bag now.... (see NYT link). This was a great discussion, thanks for all the great responses on all sides, sympathetic and skeptical. As you can see from the linked article, I'm a fan of Ditmas Park as well; if I had been able to feel a little more comfortable paying over $1m, my girlfriend and I would probably be living there. But as it is, we're thrilled.

Posted by: Russell at September 17, 2005 8:55 PM

Okay, so the cat's out of the bag now.... (see NYT link). This was a great discussion, thanks for all the great responses on all sides, sympathetic and skeptical. As you can see from the linked article, I'm a fan of Ditmas Park as well; if I had been able to feel a little more comfortable paying over $1m, my girlfriend and I would probably be living there. But as it is, we're thrilled.

Posted by: Russell at September 17, 2005 10:10 PM

Staten Island definitely does have less of an urban feel than the Slope or PPS. It developed along entirely different lines and was only connected to the rest of NYC when the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge opened in 1964. The neighborhood that BigBubba moved into is one of the oldest on the island. It's urban but not oppressively so. You can still walk to plenty of places, but a car might still be required.

The ferry is not the only way to get to Manhattan. NYCTA runs coach-style express buses from most S.I. neighborhoods to downtown and midtown. (An express bus to Metro-Tech may be in the works too, with possible stops in Park Slope and Bay Ridge on it's way to/from S.I.)

I live in New Dorp which is on the east shore of the island and is more in the semi-suburan model with ranch homes the norm. I can walk to some stores but still need a car in my neighborhood. Since two large shopping centers are nearby I only put about 75 miles a week on my car, and with gas at $3.19/gallon, it helps. The commute to downtown from here is o.k., miidtown less so, but I knew that when I moved here.

Now, to all my PPS friends. I grew up on Webster Avenue, which is sort of west of the PPS border. I pray to God that what happened to PPS in the 1970s and 80s doesn't happen again. Your neighborhood was virtually terrorized by robberies and burglaries for years. Your beautiful Victorian homes are surrounded by a dangerous and run-down Flatbush on the east and north. You must hope for two things, First, that Bloomberg is re-elected this year. Second, that once he is gone in 2009, that some anti-police moron like Charles Barron doesn't become mayor.

And another thing, what does poster 'sba' mean by 'too many guidos'in Bay Ridge. I'm not surprised that none of you fine liberals criticized him for that. If someone said 'too many niggers' you'd be justifiably all over him, you little phonies.

Posted by: Ex-Brooklynite at September 25, 2005 5:29 PM

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