Sunset Park house is on a nice block. Priced well too.

Posted by: Rick at August 12, 2007 9:41 AM in response to Open House Picks

You should do a few tests to be sure you like the color. You may want to look at alcohol stains because you can get vivid bright colors. About upkeep, I think your're talking about the bricks shedding. A clear coat of polly should help with that.

Posted by: Rick at August 13, 2007 7:51 AM in response to Brick Staining vs. Painting-DIY

Wow, if this post is for real I hope the place is cheap enough to put up rent stabilized tenants. If the purchase price is low enough that you feel that you get a nice space for yourself, it could be worth it. However, in this market, chances are you're asking for a headache.

Posted by: Rick at August 13, 2007 9:07 PM in response to Rent Stabilized

I'm pretty sure most all home owners on average get a couple tickets per year. This is just the way life is in the city. Be firm with your tenants about the trash and hope for the best.

Posted by: Rick at August 14, 2007 7:24 AM in response to How to be fair to good tenants

Yes, put it all in writing and speak to them about your plans. You will quickly see if you have a problem on your hands or not. This story is something I hear often and it sometimes comes with anger from a tenant. Do your best to be kind to yor tenant and it may go better than you think. If you end up with an angry tenant on your hands, distant yourself and file for eviction. Try to keep a cool head about it.

Posted by: Rick at August 16, 2007 6:06 PM in response to Getting rid of a tenant

I'm not surprised that the Sunset Park sold for that price. I've seen the house. It was in move in condition, a great deal of renovation was already done! It's a four story building plus a basement with a landscaped yard. The owner could have a lower duplex and 2 or 3 rentals in this 5,000. square feet house. I think it was a smart choice for the couple who bought it.

Posted by: Rick at August 17, 2007 1:47 PM in response to Just Sold in Brooklyn

I think there is a mistake on the SP house listing. The photo shows three floors including the parlor. There is a garden floor & a basement too. If the house is 20X50, that's 1000 sq ft per floor, including the basement, brings it to 5000 sq ft.

Posted by: Rick at August 17, 2007 2:12 PM in response to Just Sold in Brooklyn

This is an old problem most of us have had. It's a new experience to you because you're a new home owner. Some of the above posters have some over the top ideas, like pee in and cup or opera. You're taking a big chance if you go that route. You could be inviting a game ( or war ) of sorts. I think those ideas are fun fantasy but you're better off calling 311 or the Police. Be upfront with the people hanging out on your stoop. Be nice and tell them that your stoop is not public space. We had the same trouble when we first moved in. Often in the morning I would find beer bottles left in front of our house. I guess they considered my stoop a public party space. Originally most row houses didn't have fences or gates. Over time people added gates and fences, so now the houses that are open to the sidewalks have become invitations for a stop. Older people stop to catch their breath and kids just like to hang out and meet up with their friends..( Some of these kids can be 19 and up! ) The small kids just love to hang out on other peoples stoop too, I can understand it, It's like playing ball in the street is different than in the park. This is what city life is about. We all live around & on top of each other, it's natural that there will be some spill over into your space. Once we put a gate in, people would move to the closest stoop that didn't have one.

Posted by: Rick at August 18, 2007 7:29 AM in response to Individuals sitting on our stoop

I use LWP all the time.

Give them a call

LWP Lucky Window Products
www.lwphomepro.com

5401 3rd Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11220
(718) 492-7774

Posted by: Rick at August 19, 2007 7:51 AM in response to insulated interor wood door needed

It's a larger job than you may think. When you remove the wall tile you will have to replace the sheetrock too. Toilet & sink would have to be removed and later put back. Call a few handymen and get some quotes and you will get a better idea of the scope of the work and the cost of this job.

Posted by: Rick at August 19, 2007 4:47 PM in response to Replacing Bathroom Tiles...Help!

I would just hire someone. You'll screw it up if you do it yourself and end up paying someone anyway.

1800WOODFLOORS.COM

They are located in Astoria. I've had them do multiple floors for me after some idiot contractor thought they could save some money and do it themselves and ruined it. Just did a pickled oak floor as a matter of fact. Pickling is a very difficult look to master. Don't do it yourself. It takes alot of patience and talent. The GC did it once and screwed it up. A new guy came in and did half of it right, but they have to redo the stairs.

Posted by: guest at April 28, 2008 10:27 PM in response to How to say goodbye to Polyurethane

if you sand off the finish, be sure you sand it ALL off. If the poly remains in the pores of the oak, you will not be able to "pickle" or white-wash effectively.
You may have to scrub the pores with some remover and wire brushes even after sanding, if you want the white to get into the wood pores.

Posted by: guest at April 29, 2008 9:23 AM in response to How to say goodbye to Polyurethane

Hire someone to sand. The sanding is the hardest part, and it is possible to REALLY screw up your floors if they're sanded wrong (against the grain, etc.)

A specialist will come in with a huge machine, sand the poly off in 1 day, and will probably charge about $1.50 a square foot. Done.

Posted by: guest at April 29, 2008 1:21 PM in response to How to say goodbye to Polyurethane

when sanding:

A quick rule of thumb is that if the paper is getting gumed up, your paper is too fine.

i.e.: if you are using 60 grit and is is getting gummed up, switch to 36 grit.

If you are using a drum sander, the key is to keep it moving. start the sander AFTER you start moving, and stop the engine BEFORE you stop moving. I was nervous my first time, but it's not that hard. In another city, there was a rental place that specioalized in flooring only (not a general rental place) and they had a practice area to teach new users. THey would not let you leave with their machines until you were doing it right... (at not cost for the lessons)

Posted by: guest at April 29, 2008 4:14 PM in response to How to say goodbye to Polyurethane

4:14. That is great they had a practice area, people in NY would never do that. Probably keeps their machines working good too. The only thing is you do not start and stop the machine but rather lower and raise the drum. But that is probably what you meant. Anyway I just did my floors and they had gops of paint on them it took like 25 pieces of 24 grit paper to remove all the paint and yes people I had to go against the grain to get it all off. No problem then took 60 grit paper with the grain to take out the sanding marks. Of course the floor lent itself to this kind of abuse because it is the original yellow pine subfloor and it has all sorts of nail holes and variations in the wood. Looks great if you like this kind of look.

Posted by: guest at April 29, 2008 4:24 PM in response to How to say goodbye to Polyurethane

Oh I forgot, you have to get the edger. this is harder work than the drum sander, I ended up using the edger alot to remove some of the paint too cause it spins like a tasmanian devil and can really get down and dirty. You really have to be a man to use this machine, so if in any way you are not or only half a man stay away..

Posted by: guest at April 29, 2008 4:26 PM in response to How to say goodbye to Polyurethane

My, my, I know woman who probably equal two of your "men".

Honestly.

Just say something like: "You have to be pretty strong and over 180 lbs. to handle this kind of edger."

Posted by: guest at April 29, 2008 8:08 PM in response to How to say goodbye to Polyurethane

I had my floors done by Verranzo. Reasonably priced. In business a long time. They give free estimates. If you live in Brownstone Brooklyn, Victorian Flatbush or Bay Ridge you have probably seen their trucks all over the place.

Posted by: guest at April 29, 2008 8:21 PM in response to How to say goodbye to Polyurethane

Order plaster washers online:
http://www.charlesstsupply.com/plaster_washers/

Posted by: guest at May 2, 2008 11:16 AM in response to Sheetrock over Plaster??

I'm not surprised that your contractor didn't explain how he was going to fix the problem. He's just thinking about how to get it done quickly, inexpensively and make it look good enough that in 6 months you won't call him complaining.
I had water damaged ceilings in one of our bedrooms (we live in a 1840's brownstone). The contractor was going to simply plaster the cracks and re-paint. In this case, we WANTED sheet-rock, to cover the entire ceiling. Sure it meant lowering the ceiling by 1/4" at most, but when the building settles another 1/2" this year, the plastered cracks, won't start showing up. Maybe your guy took the cheap route but perhaps, it will work out in the end? And, if you haven't yet paid for the work, you can ask your contractor to finish the job in a manner that is satisfactory to you. If he agrees, throw him a bonus when it's all said and done.

Posted by: guest at May 2, 2008 7:06 PM in response to Sheetrock over Plaster??