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July 2, 2008
Exterior Painter Recommendations Wanted
Would anyone please recommend a painter to paint the exterior facade of a wood frame house done in Hardee Board? Someone to handle multiple colors (cornice, trim, clapboard, steps) with attention to secondary highlights on cornice and entry door.
Thank you for your input.
February 28, 2008
Sump Pump Info Needed
Does anyone have a sump pump in their basement, and if so, does it pump the water into the sewer line? And do you have a check valve? I have a French drain that was hooked up to drain directly into the sewer line, which caused problems when the sewer backed up because of tree roots. I'm now considering connecting the French drain to a sump pump which would be installed and then drain into the sewer. I was told that because of the configuration of the piping, that the sump pump would not need a check valve. The thing is that my basement is dry and the French drain was probably overkill, so maybe I should just have the connection to the sewer pipe cut off and capped - so the French drain is just non-functional, rather than have the sump pump installed. Any advice on what to do? Also, and recommendations on sump pumps?
February 27, 2008
Plumbing Engineer Recommendations Needed
Does anyone have any recommendations for a plumbing engineer regarding a plumbing problem? Your recommendations are appreciated. Thank you.
Mechanical Engineer Needed
Please recommend a mechanical engineer for a plumbing problem. Thank you.
February 15, 2008
Backyard Drain Problem
I have a drain outside my garden floor door to the backyard. It connects to the sewerline underground - the pipe that enters the backwall to the house - that also is connected from the pipe that runs down the back wall from the roof (drains the roof).
The drain box has two holes - one that connects to a pipe with holes that I think runs parallel to the house (a French drain type of thing?) and the other to the sewer line.
The problem is that there is about 4" of space below the holes to the bottom of the box, where water collects and sits.
Recently we've had an invasion of phorid flies which are know to come from sewer/drain pipes.
So my question is, is there a better box where the water wouldn't sit at the bottom. I think my phorid fly problem is connected to the box, because they are not coming from my basement (dry - no sightings), and are definitely coming into the house from the garden back door and maybe windows. Also, I think the box breeds mosquitoes in the summer.
Author's Comments
So beautiful!!! Would you be willing to share your contractor information at this point? I know you did most of the work yourselves, but you also mentioned using a contractor.
Posted by: BB at February 15, 2008 1:49 PM in response to Nearly finished kitchen (minus one lightbulb and a short to-do list)
11:06 guest. Thank you for your input. What you've said is what I've been thinking - that if the problem is the sewer drain which should now be cured. I had Econo Sewer come and video both the French drain (loaded with phorid flies because of the waste back-up) and the sewer drain- clogged with tree roots at every 4-5 feet where sections of the pipes joined. They water jeted the inside of the French drain and cleaned out the bug problem (drained the jet water out the sewer line), and roto cut all the tree roots, and then put a root killer into the line. So, if the root killer works as they said it would, and I maintain a yearly maintenance, there should be no sewage backup into the French drain. I had the French drain put in in 2000, when I had the back yard dug to the footing, and my back basement wall water-proofed from the outside (parged with cement/ liners/ a French drain and drain that connected to the waste pipe through the basement wall [also connected to the line that runs from the roof down the side of the house]. One concern is that there might be phorid flies within the sewer system, that would travel into the French drain- but I tend to think I may be overthinking this too much as the fly infestation was such a drag.
Posted by: BB at February 28, 2008 11:19 AM in response to Sump Pump Info Needed
P.S. the basement is really dry - so the French drain hasn't really been needed, since the back wall was waterproofed.
Posted by: BB at February 28, 2008 11:20 AM in response to Sump Pump Info Needed
11:06 AM So did you have your sump pump removed because the sewer would back up into the sump pump - you said my former sump pump- so I'm curious.
Posted by: BB at February 28, 2008 11:24 AM in response to Sump Pump Info Needed
Johhny - What plumber do you use, or would you recommend?
Ohlise
What cured the flooding was the digging down to the footing outside the back wall, parging the wall w. cement etc. We used this company http://usbasement.com/ which was featured in This Old House. They were reluctant to come to Brownstone Brooklyn - which was a whole other ballgame from the burbs- in retrospect, maybe I should have used someone local. They suggested the French drain which I think was overkill, as the basement is dry. However, I do think about having the front of the house done- the basement wall consists of boulders and sand really. My inner walls are thorosealed- but I think my front wall gets wet underneath it all. But no water on the floor [knock on wood] - I do worry about more torrential rainstorms with global warming though.
Posted by: BB at February 28, 2008 1:54 PM in response to Sump Pump Info Needed
Which electrical contractor are you using, and do you recommend the contractor?
Posted by: BB at March 5, 2008 11:40 AM in response to Need electrical inspection?
Amendolas on L.I. You can get 4' high board on board for bottom half and 2'lattice (4"x4", not diagonal, but vertical & horizontal for a lovely open look)
Posted by: BB at March 28, 2008 11:25 AM in response to Wood Fence contractor
3:49 Guest - Were there a lot of fumes involved when they did it, and how long did the fumes last?
Posted by: BB at March 31, 2008 3:48 PM in response to Tub reglazing
If you don't want the stones, I would love to take them. Please contact me at 212-698-3534. Thank you.
Barbara
Posted by: BB at May 5, 2008 1:12 PM in response to stones below the surface in backyard
Responses to Author's Forum Comments
Sorry, but I had an awful time with Woodzone. joe was difficult to get hold off, and started six weeks late though he had promised the job could be done quickly. Then he tried to beg off part of the job because he didn't think he could do it well. That left a half-finished job. The stain looked painted on and streaky. Go elsewhere.
Posted by: guest at May 12, 2008 4:54 PM in response to Wood-Zone ?
i used woodzone based on the comments here. Nothing but problems.
Posted by: guest at May 14, 2008 11:46 PM in response to Wood-Zone ?
Thanks so much, folks. We don't have kids or dogs, so we're figuring water based would suit our needs, plus we have very limited time to get it all done. We'd heard about the smell but didn't know about "ambering", which is definitely not something we want, as the floors are already fairly dark as it is. Plus we have cherry cabinets and an exposed brick wall, so an orange-y hue sounds a little frightening.
We are using Ken with Pro Painting and Floor Scraping. Anyone have experience with his work?
Posted by: Florence Castleberry at July 25, 2008 1:54 PM in response to Reasonable quote? Water or oil based finish?
Jab287,
Please give me more info on Sean O'Sullivan and Old Oak Flooring by emailing me at Brooklynista at yahoo. Thanks!
Posted by: Brooklynista at July 26, 2008 1:08 AM in response to Reasonable quote? Water or oil based finish?
Oil-modified urethane will yellow over time. Some people prefer this look as it gives a bit of "age" to the wood. My main objection to oil urethane is that it seals the wood like plastic (which is good in high traffic applications).
Given both options, I prefer a good water-based urethane on trim but oils on floors. Oil is much more durable. I've had bad experience using water-based urethanes on floors. I'd never do it again.
Given all options, I'd go with Waterlox. It offers much of the protection of an oil with the repairability of a shellac and it doesn't leave a thick, yellowing finish. Downside: it's still solvent-based so it smells like an oil and it has the drying time of an oil. But it's also very DIY.
Posted by: Steve at July 27, 2008 12:23 PM in response to Reasonable quote? Water or oil based finish?
I used Inti Interior Design and Floors. Talk to Carlos, his cell number is 646-281-2659. They do excellent work are reasonable with their pricing.
-Allan
Posted by: adamkidron at July 27, 2008 3:30 PM in response to Reasonable quote? Water or oil based finish?
I would also like info on Sean O'Sullivan. broeliza at gmail
Thanks
Posted by: elisbrown at August 7, 2008 5:04 PM in response to Reasonable quote? Water or oil based finish?
If they remove the doors to strip them, how do you protect your property while the doors are gone? My doors are my tenant entrance to the top floor apartment, and we use the garden. The inside door would not leave enough protection from breakins. Any suggestions?
Posted by: BB at December 5, 2007 1:45 PM in response to Wood-Zone ?