StreetLevel: Brooklyn's Young Pizza Upstarts
New York Mag’s Underground Gourmet sizes up a few newish pizza joints in Brooklyn to see how the latest crop of slice purveyors is faring in a landscape dominated by old masters like Di Fara and Totonno’s. Here’s the rundown: South Brooklyn Pizza, Carroll Gardens: An “unabashedly amateur approach has given rise to a distinct…
New York Mag’s Underground Gourmet sizes up a few newish pizza joints in Brooklyn to see how the latest crop of slice purveyors is faring in a landscape dominated by old masters like Di Fara and Totonno’s. Here’s the rundown:
South Brooklyn Pizza, Carroll Gardens: An “unabashedly amateur approach has given rise to a distinct style: ovoid in shape, medium-thin-crusted, with a simple sauce of crushed San Marzano tomatoes and a medley of cheese, including fresh mozzarella, fontina, Asiago, and Parmigiano-Reggiano (but not, McGown takes pains to ensure, all in the same bite). It’s not the cheese combo, tasty as it is, that sets South Brooklyn apart, but its signature char.”
Toby’s Public House, South Slope: “Toby’s twelve-inch pies are much more satisfying than your typical pub grub, and the olive-oil-anointed Bufalina D.O.C., in particular, demonstrates an ideal sauce-to-buffalo-mozzarella balance. Toby’s pies are wet toward the middle, thin and crisp around the edges, and nicely kissed with wood-smoke flavor.”
Roberta’s, Bushwick: “The aesthetic is part Franny’s and part Queen’s Hideaway, to invoke two other celebrated Brooklyn restaurants, and even without the pizza, Roberta’s would be a worthy destination. Its pies, like those of Brooklyn itself, might not be easily categorizable, but they’re eminently unique and handcrafted, with attitude to spare.”
Pizza, New-Brooklyn Style [New York Magazine]
Photo of a Roberta’s pie by jwh3000.
Jim McGown is a crook and he should be in jail, not making pizzas!
Period.
I’m gonna have to try it again – because the night I went the oven was acting up according to the staff – maybe that explains the charred pizza.
have they finally added some toppings?
when i went they told me they were in the “works.” other the pizza is not so memorable.
Inconsistent seems to be the flavor of SBP. Bland one night – late the next – burnt to a crisp the next – the one thing that remains consistent is the overcharged pizza.
If it were awesome, I wouldn’t might – but this is just robbery.
I guess it is a small comfort knowing I’m not the only one who Jim McGown screwed. As a tenant, I had to sue for my security deposit back. I won my case – but am still waiting for my money and it has been a year.
Maybe I should head down to SBP pizza to get my money back.
-Miriam
The pizza is mediocre at best. It seems like Jim McGown hasn’t quite figured out how to make a good pie. Our pie was late, bland and burnt – not a good combination if you want repeat customers.
I have to second the first comment.
Jim McGown is a sleazy horrible landlord, and should not be supported. As a former tenant, he never made any repairs (let rats and pigeons infest our building despite repeated requests to fix), stole our security deposit and last month’s rent. He is being sued by his bank for defaulting on 10 mortgages – I got served by the papers.
Please head to Lucali’s and support an awesome pizza place. Or better yet – head to DiFara’s.
My stolen security deposit helped pay for his “Antique Italian Brick oven.”
8:30
I think you’re thinking of Focaccino – closed.
Luna Rossa kicks South Brooklyn’s ass. It’s a travesty that those guys do such a great job and get so little attention from the press.